Gourmet/December 2006

Lobster Geless with Fresh Tarragon Oil
Servings Preparation Time Cooking Time Notes Calories Saturated Fat Fat Sodium Carbohydrates Protein Cholesterol
8 5-1/4 hours Gelees can be chilled in molds up to 2 days.


INGREDIENTS:
8 qt water 4 (1-1/4 lb) live lobsters 1 cup dry white wine
3 carrots, chopped 2 celery ribs, chopped 1 fennel bulb (sometimes labeled "anise") with fronds, stalks, and bulb chopped and fronds reserved for fresh tarragon oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped 3 large garlic cloves, minced 3 (6-inch) plus 8 (1-inch) sprigs fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, slightly crushed 1/4 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
2-1/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin (from two 1/4 oz envelopes) 1-1/2 teaspoons tarragon white-wine vinegar 1/3 cup fresh tarragon oil
Accompaniment: lobster claw toasts FRESH TARRAGON OIL: 1/2 cup chopped fresh tarragon 1/2 cup chopped fennel fronds
1/2 cup mild olive oil 1/4 teaspoon salt LOBSTER CLAW TOASTS: 1 (12-inch) length thin baguette (about 2 inches in diameter)
2-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 scant tablespoon coarse sea salt (preferably flaky)



1 COOK LOBSTERS AND MAKE STOCK: Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in pot, then plunge 2 lobsters headfirst into water and cook, covered, 8 minutes from time they enter water. Transfer with tongs to a shallow baking pan to cool. Return water to a boil and cook remaining 2 lobsters in same manner.
2 When lobsters are cool enough to handle, remove meat from tail and claws and set aside. Cut tail shells and lobster bodies (not including claws) into 1-inch pieces with kitchen shears, then rinse well, discarding gills, eye sacs, tomalley, and roe, and claw shells. Trasfer to a 6 to 8-quart heavy tarragon sprigs, salt, fennel seeds, red pepper flakes, and remaining 2 quarts water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduce to about 6 cups, about 1-1/2 hours.
3 While stock reduces, scrape any coagulated white albumin from lobster meat with a knife and cut meat into 1/2-inch pieces, then chill, covered.
4 MAKE GELEES: Pour stock through a dampened cheesecloth-lined large sieve into a large bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids. Transfer 2-3/4 cups stock to a bowl. (Cool remaining stock completely, uncovered, then freeze in an airtight container for another use.) Sprinkle gelatin evenly over 1/4 cup stock in a 1-quart saucepan, then let stand 1 minute to soften. Heat over moderately low heat, stirring, just until gelatin is dissolved, then stir in vinegar and remaining 2-1/2 cups stock.
5 Put molds in a baking pan. Add 2 teaspoons gelatin mixture to each mold and freeze until set, about 10 minutes. Put 1 small sprig of tarragon and a tip of claw meat in bottom of each mold, then divide lobster meat among molds. Fill with remaining gelatin mixture and chill, covered with plastic wrap, until set, at least 2 hours.
6 To unmold, dip 1 mold in a pan of hot water 3 to 5 seconds to loosen. Run a thin knife around edge of mold and invert gelee out onto a plate. Repeat with remaining molds. Drizzle plates with fresh tarragon oil.
7 FRESH TARRAGON OIL: Puree herbs, oil, and salt in a blender until smooth, then pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing hard on and then discarding solids. Chill if not using immediately.
8 LOBSTER CLAW TOASTS: Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350 F.
9 Cut baguette with a serrated knife on a long diagonal into 1/8-inch-thick slices (about 5 to 6 inches long). Cut a lengthwise slit about 3 inches long from center through edge of a slice, then cross ends, overlapping them, to form a "claw." Repeat with remaining slices. Brush both sides of slices with oil and arrange in 1 layer on a large baking sheet, then sprinkle with sea salt.
10 Bake until crisp and golden, about 15 minutes. Cool on a rack.

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